MY OPINION
ON CONNECTING THE WINDOW WELL DRAIN TO THE PERIMETER WEEPING OR DRAIN PIPE SYSTEM
It doesn't seem to be a good idea to direct massive amounts of water to an area that we want to keep dry at all costs, which is our basements.
- We do need weeping tiles to drain water away from the foundation walls.
- We do need window wells for windows that are installed at or below grade.
- We do need egress window wells as a means to exit the basement safely in case of an emergency.
- What we do not need is a window well acting as a huge funnel directing more water to a place where we do not want it. I think that all window wells should be outfitted with a plastic window well cover. This cover together with proper grading will direct water away from the home thereby eliminating the need to rejuvenate a clogged drain or install a new window well drain.
NOTE: When grading the area around the house a slope of 1" per foot for 10 feet would be ideal (25 mm per 300 mm for 3 m) |
Geotextile "sock".
Prevents
soil material from
clogging
the drain |
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| Window Well Drain Installation for New or Excisting Homes |
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MATERIALS USED FOR WINDOW WELL DRAIN
Choice of drain pipe material is regulated by local plumbing codes. In my area it is a flexible 4" (10 cm) perforated plastic pipe filled with gravel and covered with a geotextile “sock” to keep fine soil material from clogging the drain. This type of pipe (minus the gravel) s also used for perimeter drainage and along the footings. From there the water is dispersed to the storm sewer (mainly in cities) or to a sump pump
In other jurisdiction the standard is a rigid 4" (10 cm) PVC drain pipe.
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Four inch perforated plastic window
well pipe with geotextile "sock" and
filled with crushed stone.
The drain is directly connected to
the weeping tile |
Auguring a new hole all the way
down
to the crushed stone above the
weeping tile. Photo courtesy of
AquaGuard Injection & Waterproofing
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INSTALLATION FOR NEW HOMES
In new home construction the window well drain is installed long before there is even a window well. The drain is connected to the the weeping or drain tile and tied up to the foundation wrap. Soon after that the drain tile is covered with gravel and the drain is filled with gravel as well. Some builders use a perforated window well drain that is covered with a geotextile “sock” to keep fine soil material from clogging the drain, see images to the left. |
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INSTALLATION FOR EXISTING HOMES
Building codes require that window wells have to have a drain that is hooked up to the perimeter weeping tile. This has not always been the case and as a result there are numerous window wells in older neighbourhoods without a drain. If there is a problem with water backing up to the window and seeping into the basement you may have to install a window well drain. It can also happen that over time, an existing window well becomes clogged and no longer is capable of funneling the water to the the perimeter weeping tile system.
There are basically two ways of replacing or adding a window well drain. Both methods are expensive and disruptive to your garden layout.
- Excavating down to the weeping tile or drain pipe. Drain hookup is the same as for new home installations, see text above.
- Auguring a new hole all the way down to the weeping or drainage pipe. There will not be an actual connection of the well drain to the perimeter drain pipe. The drain ends at the gravel base covering the weeping tile and is not directly hooked up to the perimeter weeping tile. The top of the PVC drain should extend to approximately four inches (10 cm) below the height of the window sill. The drain is capped with a perforated cap which will keep out debris but allows water to be diverted to the weeping tile. |
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